Tire/wheel setup on the other hand are tricky as you may have noticed, it's all about clearance. You can grab some nice coin for the PRO shocks if you end up deciding to improve upon it. Not cheap, but well worth it, PRO shocks are one notch below that option. The issue with lifts is always ride quality, hence a lot of guys go for Adjustable & Rebuildable shocks (King, Fox, Icon, ADS, etc) & new UCA's since they open up a plethora of configurations. Im happy with my Grabbers in 33', you'll be too. I can only assume PRO trim sits level, right? If thats the case, you'll be gaining 1.5' of clearance all around on 35's, which is damn good. The vehicle is intended to be a recovery/chase vehicle for group drive from Argentina to Alaska in 2027/2028. #3: End goal: In general, my philosophy is to keep things as close to stock as possible and minimize the number of mods - especially mod stacking - to avoid potential points of failure. I am considering shackles on the leafs to give my booty a little more lift and avoid sagging when loaded down with gear, but that's about as much lift as I would prefer. I want to just go up about that amount to gain a little more margin of error and peace of mind (more skids will come with time, too). #2: A little more ground clearance: Last time out, I was usually within the 0.5''-1'' range from striking my skids or rear diff.

32.6'' both of which are only overcome by the 35x12.5. To my understanding, the 275/70 gains the more ground clearance against the 285/65: total circumference of 33.2'' circumference vs. When I swap to the Grabber A/TX, I want to go up in size to gain some ground clearance (if minimal) while avoiding a lift as much as possible. I am currently running the stock Michelin LTX A/T2 P275/65R18 (circumference of 32.1''). #1: Regarding 35's: I am not necessarily dead-set on that size, but I am dead-set on the General Grabber A/TX tire, which in the 18' wheel comes in the 285/65/18, 275/70/18, and 35x12.5R18. Your truck can have a good life on stock UCA's with the PRO shocks, if you're not looking to change shocks, then only time I'd say replace your UCA's would be because the balljoints or bushings are shot, the aftermarket variants are considerably stronger and more serviceable to the garage - yall are awesome. Your truck can have a good life on stock UCA's with the PRO shocks, if you're not looking to change shocks, then only time I'd say replace your UCA's would be because the balljoints or bushings are shot, the aftermarket variants are considerably stronger and more serviceable to the garage mechanic.Ī longer UCA would not work as it is only usable in Long Travel Suspension, this is to match the added length of LCAs (lower control arms). Tundras love a +30~18 offset with 35' or larger tires, the result is heavily influenced by the overall suspension setup (aftermarket UCA, shocks, lowers).Ī longer UCA would not work as it is only usable in Long Travel Suspension, this is to match the added length of LCAs (lower control arms). Some even claim bearing degradation but I've yet to find proof, the same has been said about spacers. Negative offset does the opposite, it will push the wheel out giving you a wider stance which can rub somewhere else depending on tire diameter and width.

Wheel offset can often time be misleading since not every manufacturer uses +/- in their numbers, however, if it doesn't have '+' then it generally means positive offset.Īt 0 offset the wheel mounting surface is at the center of the width of the wheel, a +# means the mounting surface is pushed towards the outside of the wheel, effectively tucking away the tire into the fender, hence the rubbing on wider tires.

General grabber at x 35x12.5x18